When my husband told me he won a package trip for two to Aruba, I didn’t shoot him down with my enthusiasm. To me it was a Caribbean cliché with no real exploration or adventure. Of course, I now understand that he suffered from cold weather dementia brought on by gray skies and sub-zero temperatures. In fact, he got so bad that I heard myself complain to a fellow New Englander: “But we’re going to miss almost half of March!”

Fortunately, my frost-fueled hissing fit dissipated shortly after our fight for the charter landed in Aruba. At the airport I was slightly startled to see a hill of burning trash in the dumpster overlooking the ocean. However, this monstrosity soon faded and was replaced by expanses of electric blue ocean that kept us company on the short tour bus ride to our hotel.

It’s easy to excuse a few tiny blemishes in Aruba, the “jewel of the Caribbean.” Just 15 miles from Venezuela, Aruba is tiny, just 20 miles long and about 7 miles wide. It is the most popular of the “ABC” islands, (Bonaire and Curacao are B and C), a small group of islands that are part of the Netherlands Antilles and enjoy perfect, year-round hurricane-free weather.

With its strong economy, harmonious population of less than 100,000, and comfortable standard of living, Aruba looks like a political paradise. In fact, it has one of the highest literacy rates in the Caribbean and the average Aruban speaks four languages: the official Dutch, English, Spanish and native Papiamento, a mix of African, Portuguese, Spanish and Dutch developed by slaves. from Curaçao in the 1500’s to communicate with their owners who fled the Spanish inquisition.

We enjoyed Aruba as most tourists do, at a resort on the south coast. Beginning in the capital at the western tip of Orangestaad near the island, resorts stretch all the way up a ten-mile stretch to the expensive high rises on the northwestern tip near Boca Catalina, a world-renowned wind surfing spot. Nicknamed “One Happy Island,” Aruba has plenty to amuse and delight all tastes. And, as we later learned, there’s even some opportunity for a real white-knuckle adventure.

But that does not come until later. First is the pure effortless fun of Aruba. GWV La Cabana we stayed in a suite at the resort across the street from Eagle Beach, prized for its soft sandy beach. (GWV offers 7-day trips in the summer from $ 1025 per person) The kitchen, the living room, two televisions and phones were overkill for our needs although we did use the microwave to heat the leftover snapper or Viennese schnitzel. The concept of light meal, apart from MacDonalds or Wendy’s, has not really assimilated and hard to find anything less than a multi-course dinner. The “Dine-Around Plan” we chose to provide us with seven breakfasts and four dinners at a variety of restaurants. ($ 419 per person). For breakfast, it was worth the few minutes it took to take the bus to one of the skyscrapers like the Marriott and the Aruba Grand where we got a great view and the rare treat of real milk and half. -and a half. There are many goats on Aruba but no cows so what you usually get for coffee is sweetened condensed milk the consistency of latex paint.

Speaking of goat, they serve up a great curried version at Boonoonoonoos, a popular tourist spot in Orangestaad that offers Caribbean food and bright, cheery decor. The Jamaica Jerk Ribs were hot: 20 on a scale of 1-10. (Tickets starting at $21) Another standout was the Villa Germania where you can slurp down incredibly rich sauces in the open air (tickets starting at $23), while eating with your eyes on the yachts in the harbor and the tourists in his way to the casino next door.

Most days involved beach time, usually under one of the famous divi divi trees Aruba, stooping low and tilted specimens by constant trade winds of 15 knots. Provide shelter from the sun, 12 degrees of the Ecuador, it is formidable. When we were not on the beach gazing at the turquoise water, took delight us with its warmth and translucency, the quality which makes for great snorkeling. Snorkeling is perfect for water as weak because it gives the illusion of a great adventure, while being very tame. Down there with the lemon yellow angelfish, sure it was not the only one with mask and fins who imagined herself as an intrepid diver in the deep.

Aruba offers many water activities and organized land. An early morning orientation session at a local casino offered by GWV on our first full day was invaluable. Despite the hype, it was efficient: we were able to hear about sunset sailboat, jeep adventures and snorkeling trips and then sign up for a discount. One of the favorites was the Jolly Pirate, a 4 1/2 hour snorkeling cruise with a crew of charming machos serving up poisonous rum and lunch and showing us how to swing from a rope. ($55 per person) We also liked the softer sunset sail ($40 per person) with appetizers and open bar. (Yes, practically all activities in Aruba DO have an open bar per year). Most of the boat and land tours are offered by De Palm tours, the oldest and most established tour operator on the island.

It was on our bus tour Depalm we got to see “the other Aruba.” (Approximately $ 42 per person for half day snorkeling.) The Atlantic Ocean crashes against the rocky northern California coast Lighthouse at the northwestern tip to St. Nicholas at the southeastern end. Cactus and aloe plants dot the desert landscape that is animated by houses painted in bright colors. In Aruba, house color is a family affair; ornamented even above the ground burial crypts are painted to match the address of the deceased. Our bus tour took us to the natural bridge, a coral formation that has been hit on a bridge by centuries of surf. Unfortunately, what I remember most about the site was having to pay a quarter to use a filthy toilet without toilet paper. I guess it’s extra.

Our favorite site was Arikok National Wildlife Park with its abandoned gold mines and pirate castle ruins. We looked at cave drawings and befriended a donkey very tame “wild” in this nature reserve covers about a quarter of the island. As our bus vintage bounced along the dirt roads cutting through vast that park, our bus driver assured us that if the vehicle broke down (qui actually seemed very likely to have some points) not you should concern because “it is not possible to get lost in Aruba”.

A few days later, when my husband and I were very definitely lost in our rented jeep in the middle of the Natural Park Arikok, remember his words. We also tried desperately to remember where that bumpy road ERA, as we had gotten way off track looking for a shortcut to the natural swimming pool, a swimming spot on the north coast. Our short cut turned into a dizzying series of washed out paths strewn with boulders the size of washing machines. After two hours of fear, danger and a strong dose of marital tension, we stopped to get our bearings and have the argument that had been waiting to happen. (You see, I had insisted we take this route.)

After a brief but satisfying fight, spent the remaining 6 ounces of warm water between us, we watched the sun and promised to work together. From our height we could see another garbage dump burning a newly appreciated sign of civilization. “Wow, that dump me now seems beautiful,” said my husband. With more clearheaded decided to trace the path. By some miracle, we finally found a Aruban who was also lost but able to find the exit.

Please, dear reader, do not repeat our mistake. I found out after our ride that offroaders are a big problem in the park. Park authorities are developing a map and guidelines to help visitors enjoy Arikok Park and its spectacular rock formations, vegetation, prikichi (Aruban parakeets) and natural beauty without being white gold years of environmental pests in need of rescue.